DINNER FOR PIEMONTE'S
GIUSEPPE VAIRA
of the G.D. VAJRA winery
Halloween 2010
On the last Sunday in October, we had the pleasure of hosting our friend Giuseppe Vaira from the famous Barolo/Riesling/Pinot Noir/Barbera/Dolcetto/Moscato estate in Vergne close to the town of Barolo.
He flew in from Europe and in the late afternoon we began a small celebration of Giuseppe's arrival.
We popped the cork on a 2001 Schramsberg Reserve...
This was extremely elegant and quite dry...nicely toasty, too. This was matured for 5+ years on the spent yeast.
Then we sat down at the dinner table and opened a bottle of Trefethen's 2009 Napa Valley Dry Riesling to accompany a little salad.
The salad had a lemony vinaigrette with a nice mustard character to it. The salad featured assorted mixed greens and some white and green asparagus with some warmed pancetta on top.
Ellen brought some of her home-grown cherry tomatoes...very nice.
The next course was "crab cakes." I browned some butter in a couple of frying pans and we mixed up the crab fixin's...
Rinascimento Wine Company President, Chief Cook & Bottle Washer Justin Gallen enjoyed the proceedings.
So did Ellen...
We paired this with a bottle of Selene's 2009 Hyde Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc from Napa's Carneros region.
This is a spectacular California Sauvignon and one of the best in the state.
It was quite dry and mildly citrusy with nice stony overstones.
Giuseppe was amused by the palate cleanser, made from a lovely, fruity Dolcetto from one of his neighbors.
We then opened and decanted a couple of 1998 Napa Cabernets.
The "vintage chart" tells you 1998 is a poor vintage and consumers are urged to by-pass this sort of year. We were curious to see how a couple of Cabernets had fared...were they worth cellaring? Were they still alive? Were they any good?
Giuseppe helped serve the wine.
Meanwhile, the kitchen work was mostly finished...
Toasted Israeli Couscous with mushrooms...
Lamb shanks braised in Dry Creek Zinfandel...
Stewed artichokes with zucchini.
The 1998 Dunn "Howell Mountain" seemed okay at the start, but as it sat in the glass, this bottle's funky notes took over and Ellen said it was corked...
After a few minutes, we could see that, in fact, the corky element was increasingly apparent.
So...I looked in the cellar and found another bottle...a bit older.
This was a 1981 Ridge "Jimsomare."
The vittles were passed around the table...
Giuseppe realized the Ridge was old than he!
The Ridge showed some of the dill-like notes typical of wines aged in American oak. It had plenty of acidity and a touch of tannin...a medium-bodied red, this was elegant and nicely mature. It was also relatively low in alcohol.
And the bottle still had its ten-buck sale-price tag on it!
The other wine was a 1998 Araujo "Eisele Vineyard" Cabernet from an old site near Calistoga. Ridge had made a spectacular wine from this vineyard in 1971 and it was later vinified by Conn Creek and Joseph Phelps. After being acquired by the Araujo family, it appears exclusively under their label.
The 1998 vintage was declared by most critics as a "wash out" and there wasn't much praise for Cabernets from such a "difficult" vintage.
Well...anybody tasting this bottle would be hard-pressed to embrace the notion of it coming from a so-called "off" vintage.
This was full of dark fruit aromas and the oak was sweet and cedary/vanillin. The wine was supple on the palate...remarkably fine!
At one point during the dinner conversation, Justin mentioned wines from his birth year, the lovely 1968 vintage.
Giuseppe, it turns out, made his way into the world shortly before the Nebbiolo grapes were picked in 1985.
And...I had selected a bottle of wine to pair with the various (mostly) local cheeses...
What luck!
A 1985 Vajra Barolo, imported years ago by Crosse & Blackwell!
I brought this out in the decanter and did not announce its identity...
We sniffed and tasted and some guessed it to be an old Cabernet, possibly from Howell Mountain.
Finally I brought out the bottle and Giuseppe was amazed. The cork, he noted, was clearly put in the bottle by using a hand-operated device.
At this point the paparazzi descended and Giuseppe and his birth year bottle were the subjects of numerous photos.
We then served some cheeses, mostly locally-made....
And we enjoyed the berryish, spicy Pinot Noir from the Arista winery in Sonoma's Russian River Valley. This was deliciously fruity, showing sweet cherry notes and some spice and wood tones.
Dessert tasted especially sweet, as our San Francisco Giants baseball team had been victorious in winning their third World Series game...
Bob brought pears poached in red wine and I made a Cinnamon-Vanilla Gelato.
Adam Tolmach's late harvest Viognier was right at home in this company.
Ojai Vineyard. 2002. Viognier.
Yum.
And, having been awake for more than 24 hours, Giuseppe was ready to head for his hotel and hit the sack.
This was a lovely evening...thanks to all who participated.
G.D. VAJRA2009 vintage report / part 1
Cari amici,
As you all know, I am quite allergic to any kind of newsletter or “news from the winery” and always try to avoid any communication, even if asked a few times. Blame it on me.
But Sunday morning something happened. Something so unexpected that made us all happy and thankful and I couldn’t but write to share this happiness with you all.
We woke up at
My father said these days are called OTTOBRATE, let’s say “the October days”, when the last sunshine comes to Piemonte, the sun is warm, but the cold continental winds already fight and ram the Alps to overcome them and conquer Italy. It’s a perfect combination of climatic factors for a rough variety such as Nebbiolo, and you can feel it, just by standing in the wind.
So, where is the point? We left some of our Nebbiolo grapes still ripening on the vines. We risked, as usual, and left some of the fruit behind to wait for a perfect phenolic ripening, despite the alert of rain for the week-end. As always, our risk is a move of hope: we look the sky and simply ask for some more days of good weather. What if we were unheard? Well, we would use that fruit for some table wine. But with that genius of my father, hazard is quite safe and there we are.
We have been harvesting yesterday and today but only picking two or three bunches per plant. The others won’t ripen until next week. Max temperature today was a quite chilly 18°C (64°F) and will drop down to a very cool 7°C (44°F) tonight, for the second time in a row. The daily sunshine and wind are drying the fruit, with a maximum increase of approx. 1°Babo = 0,6 Beaumé a day. The night cold is helping the synthesis of the aromatic compounds, which I imagine will be terrific. And when I look the skins, still thick and strong, and the stems, and see the pedicello (the portion that connect the berry to the stem) is red, I freak out.
Ok, got to go back to cellar now. Sometimes during the night I will complete my thesis report, since I am getting my degree on the 23rd. Anyhow, I promise I will be diligent and write you more about the 2009 vintage in a bunch of weeks. Here a few pictures taken in the last days.
A presto
Giuseppe per Aldo, Milena, Francesca e Isidoro Vaira.
Barolo village and castle, from La
Nebbiolo from a CVT-142 clone.
Average data for the 142 clone (one of the 6 planted in La
Mosto: concentrazione zuccherina elevata (22,6 %), acidità pronunciata ma equilibrata (pH 3,02 - ac. tartarico 9,20 g/l - ac. malico 3,10 g/l).
Gabri, il braccio destro di Aldo. He has been with us for almost 20 years, and he is still one of the few in short-sleeve today… look at the blue sky above, no clouds on the horizon.
A picture of some days ago: Aldo with Federico, Maria Jose ( a young Chilean winemaker) and Claudio on the sorting table.
Francesca Vaira 2010 Langhe Freisa Kye` Library 2006 Langhe Freisa Kye` Library 2014 Luigi Ba...
